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Journey of Discovery: 
Travels Around Southeast Asia

By Michael D. Morton

Dear Family and Friends,

On the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia there lives an indigenous people called the Kenyah. They are famous for their headhunting raids in the distant past, their hierarchal society and intricate artwork. While this group stopped headhunting during the early decades of the 20th century, they still practice the ritual of peselai. For peselai, or the “long journey,” men leave their home to venture out into the world, often for several years. The journey serves as a pilgrimage for their soul and a chance to test themselves in unfamiliar lands.

On July 18th, I left the United States for a year-long journey around Southeast Asia with a friend from Northwestern University. Our plan is to travel through Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Cambodia before finishing our trip in Mongolia in July, 2001. From that point, I am on my own—maybe a stint at Time (Asia) magazine in Hong Kong, maybe a chance to scout trips for an adventure travel company. I don’t know what the future will bring, but hopefully this trip will be full of meaningful experiences and personal growth.
What follows is the story of my peselai.

Table of Contents

· 1-A Typical Day · 37–Pyramid Schemes and Colonial Dreams
· 2-LA to Seoul to Jakarta to Bali · 38–Bako National Park, Sarawak
· 3-Bali · 39–Kuching, Sarawak
· 4-Tanah Lot · 40–Kuching, Sarawak (continued)
· 5-Padangbai · 41–Kapit and Belaga, Sarawak
· 6-Mataram · 42–Belaga Longhouse, Sarawak
· 7–Mataram to Cetebatu · 43–Kapit Area, Sarawak
· 8–Sumbawa Besar · 44–Belaga, Sarawak
· 9–Komodo Island · 45–Belaga, Sarawak (continued)
· 10–Kanawa Island · 46–Belaga and Long Lewan, Sarawak
· 11–Labuanbajo and Ruteng · 47–Asap, Sarawak
· 12-Ruteng, Pt. 1 · 48–Miri, Sarawak
· 13-Ruteng, Pt. 2 · 49–Mulu National Park, Sarawak
· 14-Ruteng, Pt. 3 · 50–Long Iman, Sarawak
· 15–Ende and Labuanbajo · 51–Somewhere Near Mulu National Park, Sarawak
· 16–Sape and Labuhan Lombok · 52–To Miri, Sarawak
· 17–Lombok, Pt. 2 · 53–Miri, Sarawak
· 18–Lombok, Pt. 3 · 54–To Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei
· 19–Gili Trawagan, Lombok · 55–Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei
· 20–Ubud, Bali · 56–To Labuan
· 21–“Day of the Dead” · 57–Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
· 22–Blind Faith and the Trance Dance · 58–Kota Kinabalu, Sabah (continued)
· 23–Freedom In Liberty · 59–Tenom, Sabah
· 24–Padangbai and Pura Goa Lawah Temple · 60–To Kinabalu National Park, Sabah
· 25–A Journey of Life and Death · 61–Mt. Kinabalu, Sabah
· 26–Gunung Bromo National Park, Java · 62Poring Hot Springs National Park, Sabah
· 27–Shadows of Former Glory · 63–Sandakan Area, Sabah
· 28–Sultans and Serenity, Harems and Harmony · 64–Uncle Tan's Jungle Camp, Sabah
· 29–Borobodur
· 30–Prambanan , Java
· 31–A Man of the People
· 32–Kaliurung and Back to Yogyakarta, Java
· 33–Random Thoughts
· 34–Across the Java Sea to Find Adventure
· 35–A (Dirty) River Runs Through It
· 36–“I Am Fausto”